Back from Luxor

Well, I’m back!  I got bitten to pieces, staying at the Maritim Jolie Ville, as everyone seemed to.  I have bites the size of boils!  The notorious “gyppy tummy” struck as well, affecting the last three days of my trip despite being paranoid about what I ate and drank.  I really must try to find somewhere to go on holiday that doesn’t involve either of these!

On the plus side I managed to get to see the tomb of Ay, in the Western Valley.  This is not listed either at the main ticket office, nor the ticket office at the Valley of the Kings.  But if you go to the latter, and ask for a ticket for Ay, they do have one, under that name.  You then go back to your driver in the car park, and point him at the broad rough area at the right as you look up the valley.  It often looks like overflow parking; but that is the entry to the Western Valley. 

The Western Valley is very silent, and not walkable.  You must get your taxi to take you up there.  You’ll need to collect the guardian en-route, and maybe a policeman.  There is signposting for the the tombs.  But it is well worth it!

Share

Holiday reading while visiting Luxor

As the days count down to my holiday to Luxor, I start looking at the thermometer.  It’s 5C here; in Luxor today it’s 25C.  

Of course one joy of going on holiday is time off the internet, and time to read books.  Probably we should avoid scholarly reading.  Last year I took a volume of Graf’s Geschichte der christlichen arabischen Literatur with me, but never read a line.  Holidays are for a break.  This year I’m taking guidebooks, and (if Amazon deliver them in time) novels.

I’ve not decided whether to do any sight-seeing, although I probably will.  Ancient Egypt is good; but what about Coptic Egypt?  Is there anything to see in this region?

Share

Visiting Luxor in December

This morning it was -0.5 C, and I had to scrape the weather off my car before going to work.  But I shall be off to Luxor in Egypt in a week or two, where the temperature today is 24 C in the shade.   Luxor (from al-Uqsa, “the palaces”) is an Egyptian village with a lot of hotels built on the ruins of ancient Thebes of the Hundred Gates, and across the river from the Valley of the Kings.

The 25% collapse in the value of the pound is not great news for me, and I was looking for Egyptian currency online when I came across a non-commercial site on visiting Luxor.  Luxor Travel Tips appears to be a gem. 

Since I went to Luxor last year, I was able to verify what they said about the layout of the airport on arrival, and what you have to do in what order.  It was bang on.  Recommended.

Share

Sudan: the Merowe High Dam project and archaeology

We all remember how the building of the Aswan High Dam drowned the archaeology of much of lower Nubia.  I learned today from Egyptology News that in 2007 Sudan started a project to build its own High Dam at the fourth cataract.  This is known as the Merowe High Dam project.  Nine archaeological missions are at work, under the title of the “Merowe Dam Archaeological Salvage Project”.  Among the international groups is one from the British Museum.  They have already “uncovered thousands of sites dating from the Middle Paleolithic era (150,000 years ago) to the very recent past.”

This is dreadful news for Nubian studies.  Nearly all our knowledge of Old Nubian patristic texts comes from archaeological discoveries.  All the building in this region was in mud-brick; so it will all be destroyed.  Fortunately the pyramids of Meroe are below the new dam.

I’d be grateful for any other concrete information on the finds, particularly the literary finds.

Share

Walk like an Egyptian; or, two ways to do the sand-dance

Exploring Egypt isn’t for the faint of heart, says Thom Wise of the Denver Post.

“Foreigners are not used to, and don’t enjoy, being literally shouted at on the street,” says Monkaba. “I sit on the corniche in Luxor and watch these tourists walk along, followed by someone asking over and over again if they want this or that…”

… everyone seems to see a tourist as a walking ATM.

I asked a traffic policeman for directions to my metro stop, and how much a taxi would cost. He offered to get me a taxi there: for 10 times what it ended up costing me. Another favorite ploy is in restaurants, where they’ll bring you something extra when you order — a bottle of water, perhaps, a side salad or a roll with your coffee. Normally, you’d think they were just being kind or generous, but in this case it’s a way for them to charge some outrageous amount because you didn’t think to ask how much their “kindness” would cost.

I’ve been to Egypt several times, and I think that it’s getting very bad.  My last visit to Luxor was last December, and I found it almost impossible to walk along the Corniche by myself.   I had one taxi-driver try to charge me 100 Egyptian pounds after I asked him to go a short extra distance.  Another taxi-driver who spoke little English tried to shanghai me down the back-streets.  I was glad to just stay in my hotel. 

But the culture also has some upsides.  Apparently you can buy access to pretty much any site in Egypt, as this article suggests:

Fortunately, luxury tour operators and reputable independent guides can lift you out of the cattle-call shuffle. Private viewings, special openings and entrée to exclusive venues are possible, often for a nominal fee.

“In Egypt, anything is possible, with a little bit of money,” says John Fareed, a partner in U.S.-based marketing firm Fareed & Zapala. Fareed summered in Egypt as a child and still travels there frequently for work. During his last trip to Cairo, he took a private tour with an independent guide who checked out well with his hotel concierge. After visiting a few of the major attractions, the guide brought him to a working archaeological dig, and for an extra fee of approximately $40, got him access inside and permission to shoot flash photography.

Of course a non-Arabic speaking westerner would be very unwise to try to do this themselves.  But a reputable guide who can see value in repeat business is another matter entirely.

Share

Lagarde’s Coptic Gospel Catena

I obtained a copy of the printed text of this catena for the Eusebius project.  It appears to be out of print, so I’m going to make it available to buy on Lulu.com in printed form again.   I might try and get it distributed as well — it would be interesting to see how that works.

The book is now available here.

Share

Texts in Old Nubian

The interest in ethnic studies in our days is not without advantages for those interested in retrieving material extant in minor languages. It’s possible to get funding from politically correct officials for things that in a saner world would be difficult to access. At one point I was attempting to obtain some money to get some translations made, and I had it in mind to use some African literature such as Old Nubian as a stalking horse for this purpose, and asked a question in LT-ANTIQ. The fund-raising went nowhere, unfortunately, but I have now had a couple of emails from Kerstin Weber, who knows about Old Nubian!

Not everyone will know who or what Old Nubian is. The Nubian kingdom occupied the northern end of what is today the Sudan, and the blacks living there were a constant feature in the history of Ancient Egypt, even leading to two dynasties of black pharaohs, and a civilisation based at Meroe, complete with imitation pyramids. They were converted to Christianity at the end of Antiquity, and continued to be so down to the Middle Ages, and material in Old Nubian is the literature of that kingdom. The Nubian kingdom eventually broke up under incessant Moslem attacks, and had ceased to exist by the time the first European travellers reached the area. Today Christianity is only a memory in that unhappy land. Excavations at the ancient Egyptian fortress at Qasr Ibrim (now mainly submerged by the Aswan High Dam) revealed quantities of Old Nubian texts. Like most people I know little about them.

Kersten very kindly gave me the following information, which I pass on as it may be useful:

‘The texts are all from the medieval-christian period (mostly 9th to 12th century). We have the “big” texts like “The Matyrdom of St. Menas” (without direct parallels in Coptic or Greek), “Griffith’s Old Nubian Lectionary” (Parts of New Testament Gospels and Letters), “The Stauros Text” (parts of it have parallels in Ancient Greek), some works by John Chrysostom or a pseudepigraph, several parts of Gospels and books of the Old Testament and the revelation of John. Original literature is very rare. There are some letters from Qasr Ibrim which are very hard to translate for we know one side of the correspondence only. Of course you find hundreds of graffito, dedications and things like this in the bigger ancient cities like Qasr Ibrim, Faras and Old Dongola. A lot of the manuscript fragments are as yet unpublished or even yet to be assigned to a particular genre. So there is a lot of work to do.

‘Frank Kammerzell from Humboldt-University in Berlin is working in this area, together with a group of students and graduates here who are continously working on the texts. There is still a large number of texts and fragments of manuscripts as yet unpublished. The longer texts have all been published by the late Gerald Browne (e.g. Literary texts in Old Nubian, in: Beiträge zur Sudanforschung, Beiheft 5, 1989). Unfortunately the smaller texts are only published within the field reports and often not sufficiently edited. There is a bibliography of the Nubian Language (Angelika Jakobi & Tanja Kümmerle, The Nubian Languages. An annoted bibliography, In: African Linguistic Bibliographies, Vol.5, 1993) which might be helpful.’

There was also interest in the late 19th and early 20th century, when the Sudan was under British rule. F. L. Griffith published all the Old Nubian texts known at the time. There is a journal devoted to Nubiology, Meroitica, (Berlin, Humboldt). Apparently there is also information on the internet, with some very good (and pretty recent) bibliographies — however, this is usually in (German-language) Egyptological contexts.

Share